Routeburn Track Trip Report: From Lush Goblin Forest to Alpine Panorama
If you’re planning to hike the Routeburn Track – one of New Zealand’s legendary Great Walks – you’re in for a wildly scenic ride through mossy rainforests, roaring waterfalls, alpine passes, and maybe even a cheeky kea or two. As first-timers to Aotearoa, we wanted most of our trip to be chill tourist mode (read: go-karting and shotover jet), with just a dabble in trekking. Routeburn won our hearts and itinerary for its dramatic ecological shifts, world-class views, and – bonus! – a last-minute hut cancellation that snagged us the final two bunks. Trail karma, folks.
Quick Stats: Routeburn At a Glance
- Dates hiked: Mid-February 2024
- Direction: Eastbound – from The Divide to Routeburn Shelter
- Nights on trail: 1 (Routeburn Falls Hut – NZD 102/pp as of Jan ‘24)
- Distance: ~22 mi (33 km) + 1.6mi (2.5 km) detour
- Days: 2
- Day 1: 14.5 mi + 1.6 mi Conical Hill detour (total 16.1 mi / 26km)
- Day 2: 6 mi (9.8 km)
- Pro move: Used a car relocation service to shuttle our vehicle to the end
Day 0: The Te Anau Jumpstart
To avoid a crack-of-dawn 3-hour drive from Queenstown to the Divide trailhead, we overnighted in Te Anau. It’s the classic staging town for Fiordland hikes – full of fellow trail nerds.
We followed our car relocation service’s quirky instructions, picked up a lock from a convenience store (classic NZ logistics), then checked into the Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park & Motels. It’s no frills but had everything we needed – storage for gear we didn’t want to haul over the mountains, full kitchen, and plenty of parking.
Day 1: Goblin Forests, Alpine Bliss, and a Waterfall That Ruined All Other Waterfalls
🧝♂️ Section 1: The Divide to Lake Mackenzie Hut
Distance: 7.5 mi / 12 km
Time: ~4 hours
Highlight: Moss-draped rainforest, Earland Falls in full roar
We began our hike in textbook Fiordland conditions: post-storm sunshine and a rainforest still glistening from yesterday’s downpour. The forest here is lush, tangled, mossy, and dramatic. Think Hoh Rainforest vibes, but with beech trees instead of maples.
Then came Earland Falls, a 174-meter stunner that crashed down with such thunderous intensity we had to shout to hear each other. We later learned it’s usually more chill, but thanks to yesterday’s rain, it was going full “Niagara cosplay.” Every waterfall since? Instantly demoted.
🚰 Pro tip: Bring a water filter like a Katadyn BeFree. With so many pristine streams along the trail, there’s no need to lug liters from the start.
As we ascended, the forest thinned, and by the time we neared Lake Mackenzie Hut, the trees gave way to open bush and blazing sun. We took a breather at the hut’s deck but didn’t detour to the lake – it was just too hot for extra wandering.
🌄 Section 2: Lake Mackenzie Hut to Harris Saddle
Distance: 4.5 mi / 7.3 km
Time: ~3 hours
Highlight: Subalpine terrain, panoramic Hollyford Valley views
The rainforest ended and the subalpine world began. Shrubs replaced trees, valleys opened up, and the Hollyford Valley stretched out below like a green ribbon of wilderness.
Honestly, this section gave me flashbacks to the Haute Route in Alps – minus the cheese and cowbells, plus more ferns. I told my partner, “This is Haute-lite. All the scenery, half the blisters.”
⛰️ Section 3: Conical Hill Detour
Distance: 1.6 mi / 2.5 km (round trip)
Elevation: ~650 ft / 200 m
Time: ~1 hour
Highlight: 360° summit view (and possibly the Tasman Sea!)
At Harris Saddle, we spotted the sign for Conical Hill, dropped our big packs like the smart hikers before us, and scrambled up. It started civil, with stairs, but quickly turned into boulder-hopping and light bear-crawling.
At the top? A panorama so epic it felt like the edge of the world. We could just make out the Tasman Sea way out yonder (binoculars recommended). There’s nothing like standing above it all, with valleys, peaks, and ocean in your eyeline.
⚠️ Would not recommend on a rainy day unless you have mountain goat DNA.
🐦 Section 4: Harris Saddle to Routeburn Falls Hut
Distance: 2.5 mi / 4 km
Time: ~1.5 hours
Highlight: Kea sighting, punishing downhill
Back at the saddle, we re-packed and began the knee-destroying descent toward our hut. The trail was mostly stairs made from hulking boulders. Beautiful? Yes. Easy? Absolutely not.
But! We spotted a kea – New Zealand’s alpine parrot and certified mischief-maker – perched dramatically above the trail. Later, we even saw a little yellow-headed Mohua, hopping around like it was auditioning for a nature documentary. Bird nerd jackpot.
🛌 Night at Routeburn Falls Hut
After 11 scenic hours, we arrived at Routeburn Falls Hut, dropped our packs in the last few bunks, and headed to the common area for dinner. There’s running water, gas for cooking, and solid hut camaraderie. Our dehydrated meals tasted like Michelin-starred cuisine by this point.
🍽 Side note: New Zealand trail snacks and camping meals slap. We brought some back.
Day 2: Birds, Meadows, and Chill Vibes All the Way Down
🦆 Section 5: Routeburn Falls Hut to Routeburn Flats Hut
Distance: 1.4 mi / 2.3 km
Time: ~1.5 hours
Highlight: River views, meadow ducks, bathroom break of champions
This section was mellow and dry, a contrast to the lush western side. Birds flitted about, and at Routeburn Flats Hut, the river meandered through peaceful meadows dotted with ducks living their best lives. We chilled, snacked, and soaked it all in.
🏞️ Section 6: Routeburn Flats Hut to Routeburn Shelter
Distance: 4.7 mi / 7.5 km
Time: ~2.5 hours
Highlight: Bridal Veil Gorge, canyoning envy
This stretch was nearly flat and followed the river, with plenty of access points for brave souls who wanted a swim. We passed Bridal Veil Gorge, where folks in helmets were lining up to descend into the canyon. It looked epic. Note to future self: book a canyoning trip.
Near the end, we took the Routeburn Nature Walk detour – short, sweet, and full of fun interpretive signs. Science!
Return to Civilization
Our car was waiting faithfully at Routeburn Shelter, a trailhead that feels practically luxe with real bathrooms and big maps. We rested, high-fived, and drove back to Te Anau, where Lakeside Motel & Apartments offered a well-earned shower and comfy bed. Bonus: it’s a great base to explore nearby gems like Milford Sound.
Final Thoughts: Routeburn = Big Bang for Your Boots
Can you do the Routeburn in one day? Technically, yes. Should you? Only if you’re a glutton for punishment. Two or three days is ideal, and if you want max comfort and shorter days, add a stop at Lake Mackenzie Hut like the guided groups do.
This trail packs a ridiculous amount of scenery, ecosystems, and bird encounters into a compact 2–3 day package. Honestly, Routeburn gives the Haute Route a run for its money – with rainforest thrown in for extra credit.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Preferably with a canyoning harness next time.
Subscribe for more travel stories and hidden gems!
