Hiking Haute Route: My 11-Day Trek from Chamonix to Zermatt
So… about a month before this adventure, I was supposed to go to Alaska. But alas, my hiking buddy bailed, and I was left with a suitcase of vacation days and nowhere to go. Naturally, I made a last-minute pivot – and what a pivot it was: hiking the Haute Route, a roughly 90-mile alpine trek from Chamonix to Zermatt, spread out over 11 high-altitude days in the Swiss Alps. Hence, this Haute trek review was born.
Spoiler alert: I didn’t regret it. Late-season snow? Sure. Unpredictable weather? Definitely. Sore legs? Oh, absolutely. But with a guide named Emmanuel (50s, French, endearingly wise), new trail friends, and some of the most jaw-dropping scenery this side of the Alps, the trip turned out to be exactly what I didn’t know I needed.
In this Haute trek review, I won’t get into every GPS coordinate, but I will share what the hike actually felt like – sweat, cheese, fog, delightfully chaotic weather patterns, unexpectedly photogenic cows, and yes, a very charming mountain cat. Whether you’re planning your own route, considering a guided tour, or just love living vicariously through other people’s blisters, welcome aboard.
Day 0: Chamonix – Arrival & Acclimation
Mood: Jetlagged but jazzed | Weather: Sunny | Altitude: Sneaky preview of what’s to come
Landed in Geneva and hopped into a shared van toward Chamonix. The ride alone was enough to make me giddy – hello, Alps! My hotel room wasn’t ready yet, so I wandered into town and took the famous Aiguille du Midi cable car. Science + scenery = chef’s kiss. Elevation hit 3777m. Coffee hit just right.
We met our guide, Emmanuel, and fellow trekker Nancy over dinner. It felt like the quiet before the storm (or the uphill battle, quite literally).
The hotel I stayed at can be booked here. The location is great.
Day 1: Chamonix → Trient
Distance: 12.6mi | Elevation Gain: 4000ft | Conditions: Sunny, absolutely stunning
We kicked things off with a sunny day in Chamonix, layers zipped up tight in the early chill. The trail quickly served up alpine meadows, icy wildflowers, and views so gorgeous I briefly forgot my legs were doing actual work.
This stretch overlaps with the Tour du Mont Blanc (aka the TMB), so there were a few friendly crowds. We followed Emmanuel confidently – he was like a mountain GPS with charisma. The views from the ridge near Col de Balme were a full-on panorama explosion: reds, greens, golden bushes, grazing cows.
Lunch was simple – bread, cheese, and salami – but somehow tasted like a Michelin-starred experience when paired with the view.
We descended into the tiny town of Trient, and settled into a cozy hostel where I slept like a very content rock.
Day 2: Trient → Champex
Distance: 10.6mi | Elevation Gain: 7000ft | Difficulty: Brutal
Let’s just say this one hurt. The ascent up Bovine Route was steep but manageable; the descent? A whole different beast. We zigzagged down into a rocky valley that could’ve doubled as the set of a mountain survival movie.
Emmanuel admitted it wasn’t his favorite section, and honestly? Same. The views were more rugged than pretty, and the footing required full focus. But hey, character-building, right?
Champex greeted us with its peaceful lake and adorable Swiss vibes. We passed a swing, which felt like a spiritual reward. I limped into our lodge, peeled off my boots, and high-fived myself (mentally).
Day 3: Verbier → Louvie Hut
Distance: 8mi | Elevation Gain: 2500ft | Views: Yes. All the views. Also: CAT.
Today started with a fun cheat – train to Le Châble, then a cable car up to Verbier, saving our legs for the high-altitude fun. From there, the trail flirted with cliffside drama and rewarded us with sweeping views of the Val de Bagnes.
Snow patches made a surprise appearance mid-hike. We crossed some sketchy, icy spots with serious caution and slightly elevated heart rates. Then suddenly – bam – Louvie Lake appeared like a screensaver from a dream sequence.
And just when I thought the day couldn’t get better… a cat. An actual fluffy cat greeted us outside the hut. As a card-carrying cat person, this was transcendent.
The hut was rustic and cozy, right beside the lake, and the evening clouds rolling in made the whole place look like a fairytale set.
Day 4: Louvie Hut → Prafleuri Hut
Distance: 7mi | Elevation Gain: 3500ft | Conditions: Frosty tables, lunar vibes
Woke to frost and silence.
Hiked through boulder fields that looked straight out of a sci-fi movie. Minimal flora, max rock-hopping.
Emmanuel pointed out a glacier in the distance that looked less “wow” and more “meh.” But the reflections on Louvie Lake that morning? Stunning.
Prafleuri Hut was… basic. Let’s just say I was glad I brought my sleeping bag liner.
Day 5: Prafleuri Hut → Arolla
Distance: 11mi | Elevation Gain: 2600ft | Vibe: Cows, cliffs, and cables
This day had range. It started off all chill and scenic, tiptoeing along the lakeside and politely avoiding cow traffic, then went full boss level as we powered up toward the Col de Riedmatten.
Now, this pass is steep, technical, and features metal cables to cling onto as you scale rocks (no photos sorry!). Adrenaline? Check. Views? Also check. We crested the col and caught a brief glimpse of the Matterhorn – just enough to fuel our excitement.
The descent into Arolla was bliss: green meadows, cowbells, and that deep exhale you get after a hard-earned climb.
Our hotel in Arolla was cute and had fondue. Click here to book.
Day 6: Arolla → Col de Torrent → Grimentz
Distance: 11mi | Elevation Gain: 3900ft | Weather: Rain, snow, fog, repeat
We started from La Sage (taxi assist for the win).
Cue the dramatic music. We ascended into the mist, rain turning to snow. The trail to Col de Torrent was quiet and meditative – low visibility, high vibes.
At the top, we posed like victorious marshmallows in snow gear, despite the fact that Lake Moiry was completely MIA in the fog. But as we hiked down, a brief break in the clouds gave us a magical flash of teal water and snowy peaks.
Grimentz is peak cozy. Geranium-covered chalets, artisanal cheese shops, and the cutest wooden hotel. Book the hotel here.
Day 7: Grimentz → Corne de Sorebois → Zinal
Distance: 6mi | Elevation Gain: 1800ft | Highlights: Lake Moiry redemption arc, wild deer, spa day
Back for round two with Lake Moiry – and this time, we got the view. The skies lifted just enough to reveal the glittering lake framed by steep green slopes.
Mid-hike, we spotted deer prancing across a ridge like something out of a Disney film.
The descent into Zinal was gentle and the perfect lead-up to our afternoon spa time. Yep, there’s a pool and sauna in town, and yes, it has a mountain view. I highly recommend ending a day of hiking with a hot steam and a cold plunge.
Dinner? Asian fusion. You never know how much you miss rice until you’ve had seven straight days of bread and cheese. You can book the hotel here.
Day 8: Zinal → Zermatt (Five Lakes Trail)
Distance: 6.4mi | Elevation Gain: 900ft | Mood: Gentle stroll meets foggy mystery
The official Haute Route to Zermatt was partially closed for the season, so we took a scenic train detour and hiked the Five Lakes Trail instead.
It was supposed to be all Matterhorn reflections and perfect alpine lakes. Instead: fog. Thick, dramatic, slightly spooky fog. We caught one blurry glimpse of the Matterhorn and cheered like we’d spotted a celebrity.
Fluhalp hut lunch = cold outside, warm pasta inside. Excellent tradeoff.
That night’s hotel in Zermatt was my favorite of the trip. Europe Hotel & Spa: 10/10 would move in. Click here to book!
Day 9: Zermatt: Edelweissweg Loop (via Trift & Höhbalmen)
Distance: 12mi | Elevation Gain: 3000ft | Keywords: Matterhorn maximum exposure
This was the hike. The trail climbed and climbed until suddenly the whole world opened up: the Matterhorn in its full, pointy glory, snow-capped ranges, golden meadows, and dramatic fog roll-ins.
I stopped for photos roughly every 10 steps. This trail was Emmanuel’s favorite and now it’s mine too.
Day 10: Zermatt Chill + Blacknose Sheep Cameo
Distance: ~4mi | Highlights: Gentle vibes, fluffy sheep, foggy chalets, shopping therapy
We dialed things down for our final day with a casual loop and an unexpected run-in with the famous Valais blacknose sheep – giant woolly puffballs with expressive faces and big Instagram energy.
We then spent a couple hours poking through shops in Zermatt and enjoying the town vibe. Zermatt is perfect for soft landings and quiet goodbyes.
Day 11: Zermatt → Geneva
Vibe: Bittersweet | Activity: Epic scenic train ride
Boarded the Glacier Express route back to Geneva. Mountains slid by like slow-motion postcards.
I stared out the window, smiling like a tired hobbit headed home.
Final Thoughts: Should You Hike the Haute Route?
Yes. A thousand times yes. This Haute trek review is just one take, but I hope it shows how rewarding, humbling, and occasionally hilarious this journey can be.
The Haute Route is hard. The weather is dramatic. Your knees will curse your name. But the memories? The views? The feeling of standing in the clouds with a piece of cheese in your hand and the Matterhorn in sight? Completely worth it.
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just Haute-curious, I hope this review helps you plan your own adventure. Or at least inspires you to Google “Swiss cats near alpine lakes.”
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