Hiking Kumano Kodo: Shrines, Meals & Onsens
Kumano Kodo 4-day Itinerary at a Glance
- D0: Landed in Osaka → JR train to Kii-Tanabe → bus to hotel
- D1: Bus to Takijiri-Oji → hike to Chikatsuyu → sunset & temple stroll
- D2: Hike to Hongu Taisha → bus to our onsen hotel
- D3: Taxi to Ogumotori-goe trailhead → hike to Nachi Taisha
- D4: Chill in Nachi → bus to hotel (Katsuura)→ spontaneous trip to Hayatama Taisha
- D5: JR train back to Osaka
For more details on the trip planning, please see this post. Now, let’s dive into the trip!
Day 0: Planes, Trains, and Local Mikan
Two of us flew into Osaka, where we rendezvoused with a friend coming in from Tokyo. Our mission: the ancient, sacred Kumano Kodo trail.
After landing, we made our way to Shin-Osaka Station to catch the train to Kii-Tanabe (紀伊田辺). We hadn’t booked ahead, but we’d done the nerdy thing and checked the timetable. The trains were, as expected in Japan, precisely on time – possibly to the second.
It took about two hours to reach Kii-Tanabe. We arrived at our lodge just before sunset. The place was once a school building, now converted into a quiet, rustic inn. The friendly front desk lady greeted us from behind a little window, and our room was simple yet spacious.
Dinner and breakfast ingredients were all locally sourced and served up in true mom-style fashion – not fancy, but tasty and comforting. The highlight? Mikan (oranges). This area, Akizuno (秋津野), is known for them. They were juicy, fresh, and the best part of dinner.
Lodge bookable via email or this site.
Day 1: Stamps, Shrines, and a Surprise Manga Café
We started the day with a 40-minute bus ride (cash only, bring small bills!) to Takijiri (滝尻), trailhead of the Nakahechi route. In our excitement, we dashed off before realizing the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Center was right next to the stop – where you can get a “trail passport” to collect stamps at stops along the way. We missed that, but you shouldn’t – it’s adorable and very collectible.
The trail started with a short fireroad, then led into peaceful forested hills. It was well-marked with Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) signs, and dotted with mossy steles, tiny deities, and roadside shrines.
By mid-afternoon, we reached Chikatsuyu (近露). Our lodge was a bit out of the way and hosted by a guy who seemed new – possibly day one on the job. Towel logistics were… slow. Morale dipped.
But plot twist! Our host drove us to another guesthouse café for dinner – and it was a total win. A bubbling seafood hotpot, served in what can only be described as a manga-lover’s dream café/library combo.
Turns out, this guesthouse is actually bookable and in a lovely, sunlit spot on the trail. This guesthouse café is bookable via email or this site.
Day 2: Rice Balls, Hongu Taisha and an Epic Feast
After a simple breakfast, we hit the trail early. Our host had packed rice balls for lunch -handmade and unexpectedly amazing. The morning walk was mostly forest, with a detour due to storm damage (2 miles – not the most scenic, but functional). We were back on the original trail soon, and reached Mikoshi-Toge Pass (三越峠) by 10 a.m.
The rest of the day was blissfully downhill. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrived at Hongu Taisha, a grand shrine rebuilt over 100 years ago after flooding. Its natural wood structures melt right into the forest.
The main deity enshrined here is Kumano Gongen (熊野権現).
Just past the shrine stands another torii gate – same shape, but much, much bigger. It’s actually the largest torii gate in the world. Impressive in scale, though I didn’t find it especially charming beyond its size.
Legs exhausted, we happily caught the bus to our onsen hotel. And oh wow. Friendly front desk, spacious lounge, and a little gift shop full of cuteness. (I may have bought a few chopstick rests I still use three years later.) Our room was minimalist and serene, with tatami mats, shoji screens, and forest views that made us feel like we’d wandered into a peaceful Ghibli scene.
Dinner? A private room. Ten-plus courses. Local, fresh, unforgettable. And the onsen afterward was the cherry on top of a perfect day.
Book this amazing onsen hotel here.
Day 3: Sacred Trails and Surprise Hospitality
Breakfast was so good it deserves its own haiku. Multi-course, thoughtful, unforgettable.
With help from the English-speaking front desk, we pre-booked a taxi to Koguchi (小口), where we began our final – and most epic – trail day. Our driver, a local uncle type, was all smiles. He even stopped at a countryside shop to gift us local sticky rice balls, insisting we pack snacks for the trail. Kindness level: expert.
We skipped Kogumotori-Goe and tackled the grand finale: Ogumotori-Goe (大雲取越), aka “Big Cloud-Catching Pass.” Around 9 miles with 3,000 ft of elevation gain.
The trail was magical – mossy stone steps, wooden stairs, sacred stillness. Light filtered through towering cedar trees, giving the trail a sacred, peaceful vibe.
Steles etched with haiku popped up along the way. My favorite:
Is it wind in the trees, or a stream down below?
Just thinking of the descent ahead fills my heart with joy.
Beautiful, and just the right amount of funny.
After two hours of climbing, we hit Echizen-Toge pass (越前峠). Then it was a rollercoaster of friendly ups and downs until Funami-Toge (舟見峠), where we detoured up a hill for sweeping 360° views – ocean glimmering through the trees.
Then: the descent. When we emerged, there it was – Nachi Taisha, with Japan’s tallest waterfall, Nachi-no-Otaki (那智大滝), crashing behind it like nature’s exclamation point.
This was our favorite day. If you only do one hike, let it be this one.
Our lodge was nearby and we arrived just in time for dinner. Except… we forgot to book dinner. The surprised chef team scraped together something delicious anyway – saving us from Cup Noodle fate.
The stay itself was basic: clean shared showers and toilets, and a small onsen (very appreciated after a long hike). Not fancy, but fine.
To book this lodge, click here. But check out on time – they charge late fees without warning.
Day 4: Charms, Shops, and Ocean Views
With no hiking on the docket, we took it slow. Nachi Taisha in the morning, waterfall photos, omikuji (おみくじ) fortunes from a giant wooden bucket, shopping, soft serve. A perfect cool-down day.
A highlight was the 交通安全御守 (travel safety charm), shaped like a tiny shrine featuring Yatagarasu (八咫烏), the sacred three-legged crow. It wiggles in your car if you drive too fast or take sharp turns – charm with a side of accountability. We love ours to this day.
After checkout, we caught a bus and ferry to our hotel on a peninsula. With little to do but soak and stare at the ocean, we detoured to Hayatama Taisha – our final shrine.
Despite our tired legs, we climbed the stairs and were rewarded with sweeping ocean views.
Back at the hotel: ocean-view onsen, total bliss. It’s a large place that hosts tour groups, so maybe not for everyone – but the onsen? Absolute perfection.
Day 5: Sayonara, Kumano
We caught the train back to Osaka, tired, happy, and slightly more enlightened (or at least more limber).
Even three years later, this remains one of our favorite trips of all time. Sacred trails, warm meals, kind strangers, and onsen galore. If you’re thinking about it – go.
Curious about how I planned this adventure? Check out my other post where I share the details on how to prep for this trip!
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