3-Day Camí de Ronda Hiking Review: Tips, Towns & Surprises
Day 1: The Logistics Tango & Cliffside Bliss
We kicked off our trip with some last-minute logistics (classic), including checking luggage, deciphering the bus station’s secret layout, and an emergency backpack purchase for my friend. But thanks to an early start and minimal stress, we had time to breathe, caffeinate, and marvel at the miracle of our bus tickets actually working (yes, I was low-key worried).
The bus was impressively clean, on time, and traffic-free — a Spanish public transport fairy tale. Around noon, we hopped off at Sant Feliu de Guíxols, our hiking launchpad. With sunset still hours away, we decided to grab lunch in town before starting the trail. A sunny Sunday + a cute café = the perfect mood booster.
Armed with a pre-downloaded AllTrails map (which was mostly accurate), we started the hike. The trail was well-marked, with signs detailing the area’s history and geology — my inner nerd was delighted. We wound our way from beachfront to cliffside, taking photos like full-blown tourists and greeting fellow hikers, including a group botanizing their way down the trail.
Then came our first mini-adventure: as we neared Platja d’Aro, we realized we were on the wrong side of the El Ridaura River. Cue dilemma: backtrack 15 minutes to the bridge or go full “choose-your-own-adventure” and cross the shallow river barefoot? Naturally, we chose the fun/messy route. The water was cold but manageable — and hey, walking barefoot on the sand afterward was actually kind of nice.
We strolled along the beach to our hotel, one of the few open during the off-season. This also explained the slim pickings for dinner… which, unfortunately, ended up being one of our worst meals of the trip. We took the L with grace.
That night, the wind howled and the waves crashed dramatically — a solid forecast for rain the next day. Spoiler: the forecast was spot-on.
Day 2: Wet Socks, Wrong Turns, and Rainy Romance
Regretting the previous night’s sad dinner, we made a solid rebound with the hotel’s breakfast buffet (a bit pricey but worth it). We also stashed some snacks for the day ahead.
Outside? Totally different vibe. Rainy, windy, and moody. Our friend wisely chose to taxi ahead to the next town. My partner and I? We embraced the drizzle, suited up in rain gear, and started hiking at 9am.
We climbed wet-but-manageable cliffside paths, feeling the wind but not battling it. The sea was dramatic, the sky grey, but the coast still sparkled in its own cinematic way.
Following another slightly-off AllTrails route, we made our way to the beach. Rookie mistake. At some sections, the waves licked the base of the cliffs, and we had to make a soggy choice: climb back or commit to wet feet. We chose the squishy path forward, misjudging our waterproof shoes’ actual waterproofness. Result: soaked socks. (Barefoot would’ve been smarter, hindsight = 100/100.)
When we finally found a ladder up the cliff, we celebrated with a sock-squeezing break. We had dry pairs, but with swampy shoes, it didn’t feel worth it. So we just… kept going, repeating the squeeze-and-go strategy throughout the day.
Bonus fun: we got bamboozled by a confusing trail sign. Pop quiz: which way would you go if a sign pointed ambiguously at a fork? We guessed wrong (twice), laughed at ourselves, and moved on.
After a three-hour trek, we arrived in Palamós. Despite one Redditor’s claim it’s “too touristy,” it felt peaceful and authentic to us. We ducked into a café full of regulars and wished we had more time to soak in the local vibe.
Fueled and refreshed, we hiked on. I warned my partner that the afternoon trail would be hillier — we were both honestly relieved to be off the beach.
The trail turned out to be a gentle climb, with rewarding views and easy navigation. At around 4pm, we landed in Calella de Palafrugell, where our friend was relaxing by the sea. We joined her, devoured some excellent clams, and watched waves roll in.
The walk to our hotel in Llafranc was short and scenic. Dinner? A wild card. Our hotel booked us a table at a restaurant… in a lighthouse. A real one. The light was rotating. We were underdressed. It was glorious.
Turns out it was a Japanese fusion spot with fantastic food. We left full, delighted, and feeling slightly fancier than we looked.
Day 3: Sunshine-ish, Staircases, and Sweet Views
The weather was kinder — just occasional drizzle — and the day’s hike was shorter. Our friend rejoined the squad.
We fueled up with another delicious breakfast (A+ buffet strategy), left around 9:30am, and retraced our steps to the lighthouse — a steep 30-minute climb that made us appreciate last night’s 5-minute car ride even more. From there, the trail curled around the hillside, offering peekaboo views of the towns and sea below. Eventually, we popped out onto a field full of wildflowers.
Before noon, we descended to rocky shores near Tamariu, where we hit another “choose-your-own-adventure” moment: climb a tricky hill or cross a shallow bit of water. We tried the hill, then did a slow-motion scramble on the way down. In hindsight: the water would’ve been faster and safer.
Tamariu was sleepy — very few restaurants were open — but we found a decent spot to refuel. Nothing memorable, but it did the job.
Then came some of the best scenery of the trip: dramatic cliffs, misty waves, and bold rock formations, even under grey skies. The views were moody and magnificent – like a Catalonian landscape painting come to life.
We hiked through a forested flat section and followed the road back down to the sea. And there it was: our final hotel. Ocean view. Artsy interiors. Comfy beds. Delicious food. Chill vibes. We even had time for drinks at the bar.
Day 4: Smooth Exit + Final Thoughts
The hotel arranged a taxi for us to the Begur bus station. It arrived early and got us there in 10 minutes. We got there well ahead of schedule, then spent the next half hour doing our best “confident but mildly anxious traveler” impression. To our delight, the bus arrived right on time. (Begur public transport: unexpectedly efficient. Who knew?)
The ride back to Barcelona included a scenic cruise through small towns before hopping on the highway. In hindsight, starting in Sant Feliu de Guíxols was perfect: short travel time and lots of hiking energy from the get-go.
So… How Was It?
Short answer: Amazing. Longer answer:
The Camí de Ronda is beginner-friendly, low on elevation but high on views. Towns are spaced conveniently so you don’t need to carry tons of food or water. The Mediterranean coastline delivers — from the teal waters to the rugged cliffs to the charming little fishing towns.
We especially loved the colorful ocean, the towering cliffs near Begur, our barefoot beach moment (honestly fun), the lighthouse dinner, and the gorgeous hotel in Aiguablava.
Challenges? The trail occasionally got confusing, requiring a little GPS-checking brainpower. The rain added some sogginess — but also a sense of adventure. In late March, the temperature was perfect. Would I come again in the dry season? Probably. But we had a great time despite the drizzle.
What I’d Do Differently
The slow pace of life along the coast was infectious. I’d love to spend more time soaking in these towns — maybe a few extra nights in Palamós, Calella de Palafrugell, or Llafranc. Hiking is lovely, but snorkeling, kayaking, or just wandering around town with an ice cream in hand sounds equally appealing.
Next time? I’m staying longer, wandering slower, and soaking in every charming little seaside town like it’s my job.
Final Thoughts from the Trail (and My Heart)
The Camí de Ronda gave us sunshine, sea spray, a few soggy surprises, and a whole lot of heart. I came for the coast, but I left with a head full of views, a phone full of photos, and a soft spot for Catalonia’s cliffside charm.
Curious about how I planned this adventure? Check out my other post where I share the details on how to prep for this hiking trip!
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